Wine school is officially out for summer…where has the year gone! And what better way to celebrate than exploring another wine region. There are 65 wine regions in Australia so there’s plenty to keep me entertained.
A weekend in Melbourne means a short drive out to the stunning Mornington Peninsula, a cool-climate wine region given it is surrounded by water and benefits from the cooling sea breezes. It is one of Australia’s up-and-coming regions that is still in its relative infancy (vineyards planted from the 80/90s onwards typically). This region is famed for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with some surprisingly delicious Pinot Gris/ Grigio on the rise too.
As an intro to the region I joined a pre-arranged tour which had some highs and a few lows…Melbourne is just weeks out of one of the world’s most severe Covid lockdowns and the impacts on the hospitality industry are certainly pronounced. Staff shortages being the biggest issue with many places having to limit opening hours simply because they don’t have the people available to open. Fingers crossed these businesses start to get back on their feet – they have had it tough for sure.
Port Philip Estate
The day began on a high at the stunning Port Philip Estate which is famed for it’s futuristic multi-million-dollar restaurant, cellar door and winery complex. The views over the vineyards and out to Westernport Bay really were breathtaking, with the building expertly designed to hug the stunning vista. The estate has two wine brands made onsite – Port Philip Estate and Kooyong – from three vineyards:
- Kooyong vineyard was planted in 1996, it is north-facing approx. 100-120m above sea level. The 40 hectare vineyard is predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with some small sections of Pinot Gris and Shiraz. The Kooyong Estate Chardonnay and Haven Pinot Noir were lovely with the Beurrot Pinot Gris the biggest surprise – a delicious wine that was described as a ‘crowd-pleaser’ for those times when you’re trying to satisfy Sauvignon and Chardonnay white wine drinkers. I’d agree and at A$32 (£16) good value for money too.
- The Port Phillip Estate Red Hill vineyard was planted in 1987 situated at 140-160m above sea level, this nine hectare vineyard is predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
- In comparison, the Port Phillip Estate Balnarring vineyard was planted in 1997 at just 50-60m above sea level. The Balnarring Pinot Noir 2019 gets a good write up from Halliday – one to try next time.
Whilst the wines were good it really was the stunning views that made this place. With a restaurant and even some guest rooms onsite, I will certainly be back for a long lunch to soak up the view and sample a few more of their wines.
Kerri Greens
Next up was Kerri Greens, the new kid on the block, launched in 2015 and named after a local surf break. This winery is owned and operated by two young vignerons who both have wine making roots. Tom McCarthy is son of Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy, who now own Quealy wines, but their original winery T’Gallant really brought Pinot Gris and Grigio to the region with Kathleen Quealy being named the “Queen of Pinot Grigio” by James Halliday. Tom is the winemaker and Lucas Blanck, son of winemaker Frederic from Domaine Paul Blanck in Alsace the viticulturalist – a Pinot Gris making match from heaven. This is a boutique winery with a modern, relaxed cellar door made from old water tanks, the winemaking is traditional with organics and sustainability important to them but the energy and ambition of the owners is felt in their delicious wines.
Red Hill Estate
Our final cellar door for the day was Red Hill Estate which was established in 1989 by the late Australian businessman Sir Peter Derham as a pioneer of sparkling wine on the Mornington Peninsula. The estate used to boast one of the best restaurants on the Peninsula but sadly this place is a little past its best these days. There are some stunning views but the place is certainly in need of re-investment. The cellar door was also more set up for large groups than focusing much on the wine. Despite the set-up we had a great host, who introduced us to their cellar door only wines (the rest of the list is mass-produced for supermarket-chains) which were actually much better than first impressions presented.
I’ll certainly be heading back to Mornington – there are over 50 cellar doors there, we barely scratched the surface, plus there are a number of award-winning restaurants to choose from too all within a stones throw of the beach. A trip up Mornington’s Arthur’s Seat, even on a not-so-clear day, showcased this beauty.
